I was told to become one with the ocean. That riding the wave without resistance is what makes you surf. I knew what to do in theory, but the task at hand was so challenging for me to accomplish. Boarder line impossible because my body has been doing the same thing, following the same patterns. Since the loss of being innocent and wild.
I would clench on to the board. For dear life. Because that's what I was taught. I was in a strong current of momentum. Where the water has always meant fear. Drowning. Death. Strength of the under pull. Too strong for me.
But when you ride with the strength, you become stronger yourself.
When you are able to release your resistance to the flow and allow the innocence of the water to guide you, you will be one. You will understand each other. And you will ride. It will be effortless.
You won't have to worry about it hurting you. Or controlling you. Because when you are truly connected to something with all of your being, there is no adversity. There is no pain or hurt or fear. Because you are one. Your souls understand each other and become united. Without words.
Things become clearer. And you feel better. Everything makes more sense. You are no longer pausing events or actions. You are not accelerating the motions. You are riding them. Just at the right speed. Faster. With passion. And freedom.
And then you stop pushing. And it starts to make sense. And you laugh more. And you know what you want. And you know what to say in each moment. And you understand the process and enjoy every step.
Then once you get on that wave- you ride it. You RIDE it. And eventually you fall off. Because you have to. But then you get back on. Stronger. And with a little more smarts. And it just keeps getting better.
When you finally trust in something that is right, it all makes sense. You are no longer waiting for the future. Because this second is bliss. Because you are riding with each moment. Not against it. That is Pura Vida.
And finally when I rode it, I couldn't get close enough. When you become connected with someone Or something, you can't get close enough. So I let go. And got closer. And trusted.